Installing a Floyd Upgrades Brass Big Block

August 27th, 2010

Comparing the blocks, Floyd Upgrades one at top, stock Gotoh below.

Comparing the two blocks








































There’s been a bit of discussion at Jemsite.com lately about the merits of Floyd Upgrades upgrade options for double-locking Floyd Rose style bridges. One of the popular upgrades for these style bridges is the Brass Big Block.

I thought that I would ask Adam Reiver at Floyd Upgrades about his upgrade options, and he kindly sent me out a Brass Big Block upgrade for my Gotoh equipped custom to test out. I will have a review written up for the Brass Big Block upgrade soon, but I thought I should write a DIY up for replacing the block.

At first look most might thing that they may have to completely remove the saddles in order to install the block, meaning changing strings at the same time. I had only just restrung my guitar a week or two before receiving the big block, and didn’t

really want to change my relatively new strings just yet. I thought I would see if I could find a way to replace the block without removing the strings from their saddles, and whilst I had to set up intonation again I was quite successful.

Step 1:
Remove the bridge from your guitar. Leaving the strings attached and tuned, remove the strings from the back of your bridge. Remove the bridge from the cavity, and move it to the side of the guitar.

Get a photo of the saddles for intonation reference.

Step 2:
Take a photo of your bridge from directly above so you have a picture of where the saddles were set. This makes setting the intonation a bit easier as you will have a reference to work with.

Remove the intonation screws from each saddle.

Step 3:
Remove the intonation screws from each saddle. Put the screws in a safe place so you wont lose them. You don’t want to have to crawl around on the ground trying to find a stray one!

Lift up the saddles to locate block screws.

Step 4:
Lift up the saddles and locate the screws holding the trem block in. You should just have enough play to get a screw driver in to remove the block from the bridge’s base plate. Remove the screws, and as you are doing so pay attention to the alignment of the spacer plate and string lock screw guide between you trem block and bridge.

Floyd Upgrades block installed.

Step 5:
Put your new big block in place, taking note of the spring holes to make sure they are the right way around, closer to the spring claw. Insert the block screws and tighten them up.

Step 6:
Look at the photo of your intonated bridge again and try to set the saddles to their original positions again. Install the bridge back in your guitar , check the tuning and intonation on your tuner, and if out adjust accordingly. I wont go into specifics on setting intonation as there are plenty of guides out there on the World Wide Web.

And there you have it! The brass big blocks are a pretty reasonably priced item, and the installation is pretty easy too. You should notice that your previously thin sounding guitar should sound a lot fuller, and you should also have a bit more sustain too. A very worthwhile upgrade.

The block is quite a bit bigger than stock, so you might have lost a little range. If that is an issue you could use a Dremmel to open up the inside of the cavity a little more to give you the room to reach your desired range.

Modding the Daphon E20OD – part 2

August 21st, 2010

Introducing the Green Envy

I’ve finally finished off the modifications to my re-worked Daphon E20OD pedal. With the rehousing of it I wanted to give it a new look and name. Seeing as the Daphon E20OD is essentially a reworking of the Boss SD-1 Super Overdrive with a Ibanez Tube Screamer chip, and because I had added in the switch to go between symmetrical and asymmetrical clipping, and modified the circuit to be a little closer to a Tube Screamer one I felt I had to acknowledge these things. I ended up Christening it the “Green Envy”.

The artwork I found on Deviant Art (by xcrystalcorex – hope you don’t mind me using this for personal work), and I felt that it sat nicely with the name I came up with. The way I did the artwork was by printing the imagery on some photo paper, cut it out, and glued it to the top of the pedal. This wasn’t my preferred way of doing this. I wanted to use some adhesive photo paper to make it easier to stick the the pedal and it’s curved edges, but couldn’t find any today. I then sprayed a light coat of clear coat to help stick the image to the pedal. This would have worked a lot better had I used the adhesive paper, but it will do for my first attempt.

The E20OD came with a PCB mounted AC jack, but I wasn’t able to give it external access very easily. I decided to install a new jack on the side of the pedal.

The jack I had bought at my local electronics store was a metal cased one, and I realised afterwards that I would have to ensure that the jack was not installed with metal to metal contact, as the standard AC jack arrangement on most pedals these days is the Boss standard with the tip as negative. I bought some rubber grommets to install the jack to get around this.

Newly installed AC jack.

To make the installation simple I left the stock PCB-mounted jack alone, and wired up a 9V battery clip to the jack, with what is normally the positive wire to the tip, and negative to the sleeve. This is so I could plug the clip onto the pedals batter clip, and match up the polarities correctly. This worked nicely, and meant that I could use AC power, or hook up a battery if I felt the need to.

Building this customised pedal has been an extremely rewarding experience. I would love to make a few other changes to the Green Envy, like add a true-bypass switch, and maybe quiet down the pedal a little more, but that will be extremely difficult considering how packed the enclosure is right now, and my limited skills.

I’m planning to build a pedal from scratch next. I’m looking a building an Electro-Harmonix LPB-1 on perfboard, so hopefully that will go well.

What happened?

August 14th, 2010

Please excuse the look of my site right now. I’ve been trying fix some things I wasn’t happy with.

I’ve since decided to build my own theme, rather than try and fix other themes.

For now I’ll just use the basic WordPress theme until I’ve finished making my own, or given up and put something else in place.

Update: 17/08/2010
I’m slowly moving along with designing  a new theme based on the default WordPress theme. It’s starting to come together now, although it’s not entirely cross-browser compatible yet.

Internet Explorer (as usual) is causing some grief with the layout. The site is looking its best in Firefox. Hopefully I’ll iron out the creases shortly. If you are seeing any display issues please let me know. I am modifying the site on the live server, so things might look funny, but refresh a couple of times first just in case I’m tinkering with the site when you are looking at it.

Thanks for your patience.

New Gear Day (NGD): MI Audio Crunch Box Distortion

August 13th, 2010

MI Audio Crunch Box - canned Marshall goodness!

This has been an exciting week for new gear. After the Sanyo Pedal Juice and the Floyd Upgrades Brass  Big Block arrived, an MI Audio Crunch Box distortion pedal was waiting for me at my doorstep today.

I’ve been hearing great things about this stomp box, and what makes it even better is that MI Audio is an Australian company. There are some fantastic sounding demos of the Crunch Box available on YouTube that have made me really want to try out this pedal.

A short play with it revealed that is definitely a “Marshall stack in a box”, with that famous midrange crunch that Marshall is known for. Plenty of gain on tap for nearly every style you may want to play, and the tone control has a massive range.

I’m looking forward to giving the Crunch Box a good run through, and I’ll have a review written in the coming weeks.

A big thanks to MI Audio for sending this out to me to review as well.

DiMarzio Tone Zone – review

August 13th, 2010

The DiMarzio Tone Zone, a monster pickup that takes some taming.

In the quest to make my Ibanez 20th Anniversary RG550 RFR really roar I decided to take on the DiMarzio Tone Zone. I had previously installed the DiMarzio PAF Pro in the bridge position, and as I mentioned in my PAF Pro review I found that it just didn’t drive my amp hard enough. I loved the tonality of it, but I didn’t want to have to kick an overdrive every time I wanted to use this guitar to get a similar amount of gain as I had coming from some of my other guitars.

The DiMarzio Tone Zone is a fairly polarising pickup amongst guitar players. It is a pickup that people either love or hate, and this love/hate relationship probably stems from its tonal properties.

With an Alnico magnet, a bass and middle rating of 8.5, and treble of 5 on the DiMarzio scale, the stats give you an immediate impression of massive low end grunt. To some this is massive fat high gain heaven, to others its high gain mud.

As I had mentioned earlier I was installing the Tone Zone in my Ibanez RG550. This guitar has a basswood body, and maple neck/fretboard. Acoustically my guitar has quite a thick low-end, and this tonal property did worry me a bit since the Tone Zone has such a massive amount of low-end.

On the initial installation of the Tone Zone I was hit by a massive wall of low end tones from my guitar, and very little high end to help it cut through. It did concern me a bit as it was far too muddy for notes on the low E string. I wasn’t about to give up on it just yet though, and was fully prepared to tweak things.

I had previously performed magnet swaps on a couple of pickups, and tried out the “half-air” mod that a lot of people perform on Tone Zones, and was prepared to open up the pickup if needed. I wanted to try and increase the high end and drop the low end a bit without the need for pickup surgery though.

After doing to research and asking some questions on forums I decided to try lowering the pickup a fair amount, and raising the 3 bass side screw pole pieces. I ended up with the pickup on the bass side of the guitar about 3mm above the pickguard, and the treble side a little higher. I screwed the 3 bass side pole pieces out so that the screw heads were pretty much sticking out the the guitar , and kept the treble side ones flush with the pickup bobbin.

My setup for the Tone Zone, note the 3 raised polepieces on the bass side.

I found that the sound was far more pleasing after these tweaks. The low-end was still very big, but not in a bad way. Keeping the pickup fairly low from the strings tamed the low-end, and raising the pole-pieces added enough high end to give the pickup clarity to go with its massive punch.

The Tone Zone works fantastically for big heavy rock, punk and metal styles as it provides a great amount of chunk and grind. It also responds very nicely to your pick attack, which gives you far more flexibility than most high output pickups. Rhythm parts sound absolutely massive, and lead parts higher up the fretboard retain a fatter sound than what you would get from most bridge pickups.

One thing that needs to be remembered when talking about the Tone Zone is that in standard series humbucker mode it is not a very good pickup for clean tones. This pickup is designed to rock through the dirty channel of your amp. Through the clean channel it will sound big and nasty, with a slight overdrive that is pretty unpleasant. However split it and combine a middle single coil pickup and you will find some pretty cool Strat-like tones that work nicely both clean and overdriven.

The DiMarzio Tone Zone is a fantastic pickup for a huge rock sound. With a little bit of tweaking of the pole-pieces and the pickup itself you will find that you can have a massive low-end wall of sound, and still retain enough clarity to sound nice and articulate. If you haven’t tried the Tone Zone go and try it out, and if you have and found it too muddy maybe give it another go. Play with the pole-pieces and lower the pickup a bit, and you might find that you can tame the beast a little, and make it work to your liking.

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