Archive for November, 2009

Gotoh Floyd Rose® Licensed Locking Tremolo – review

Thursday, November 26th, 2009
Gotoh Floyd Rose® Licensed Locking Tremolo with Locking Nut

The best double locking trem out there.

The Gotoh Floyd Rose® Licensed Locking Tremolo is an amazing unit. It takes what Floyd Rose originally designed and takes it to that next step. What makes it even better is that it is cheaper than the Original Floyd Rose and Schaller models.

Gotoh have built their version of the Floyd Rose with hardened steel plate and saddles, and a lower profile tail piece than the original Floyd Rose. This results in great tone and sustain, comfortable playability, and the knife edges wont wear out quickly like a lot of the licensed models out there.

A brass sustain block also helps the Gotoh unit achieve a strong cutting tone, and I believe that it also adds to the sustain of the guitar.

The Gotoh variant also offers superior tuning stability due to their locking studs. These are just like the Ibanez Edge and Lo Pro Edge ones found on classic Ibanez guitars (Gotoh actually manufactured these Ibanez trems).

The icing on the cake so to speak is the design of the internally threaded trem arm. I believe Gotoh’s design is by far the best out there. No screwing in the arm, and it coming loose after some use, the Gotoh has a holder with a grub screw designed to tighten or loosen the grip on the thread-less trem arm. this ensures minute, precise adjustments to suit your playing style, and the trem bar will stay as you like it for far longer than the other designs.

All in all, the Gotoh Floyd Rose® Licensed Locking Tremolo offers the best value for money. It gives you rock solid tuning stability, and fantastic cutting tone and sustain for less money than the original. It truly is an evolution.

I have also reviewed this on Jemsite’s comparison shopping. Go check it out for more reviews on this product, and prices at different online stores.

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Modifying pickups – continued

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

This is a follow-up on from my initial post about modifying pickups.

The “distortion” ceramic pickup magnet I ordered from Ormsby Guitars arrived this week. A big thanks to Perry Ormsby for all his assistance regarding pickup magnets.

On first inspection I noticed that the new magnet was a little bigger than the ones I had used so far. The advice from Perry was not to try file the magnet down as the magnet would lose its magnetic properties. Thankfully I hadn’t tried to shave the magnet down at all before I asked the question!

So anyway here is the process I went through to change the magnets:

Step 1:

Remove the strings from over the pickups so you can get access to the pickup you wish to modify.

My RG550 has a pickguard, so obviously the pickguard needs to come off. Having a guitar with pickup rings would have been preferable in this instance so I didn’t have to pull everything out.

Undo the screws holding the guard or ring so you can get to the pickup.

Step 2:

Remove the screws from the pickguard, and undo the pickup screws.

Unscrew the pickup screws so you can remove the pickup from the guard or ring. This is so you can easily undo the backing plate of the pickup to gain access to the magnet beneath the pickup bobbins.

Be careful when doing this is there are springs on the screws. You don’t want them shooting off somewhere in your room and losing them.

Step 3:

Flip over the pickup (and the pickguard if you have one) and unscrew the 4 screws that hold the pickup backplate on. Take care not to lose the little buggers.

Screw the 4 screws holding on the pickup backplate.

Again, take care not to lose these screws. You probably wont have any screws in the same size if you haven’t really played with pickups before. You don’t want to have to crawl around on hands and knees for hours trying to find them in the carpet, or worse have to head down to a hardware store to try and match up screws!

Step 4:

Carefully pry off the backplate. this is where you need to be careful. You may need to cut through the pickup protective tape adhesive around the backplate with a Stanley knife.

Carefully pry off the backplate.

In my case I was working with a 20-odd year old pickup, so the adhesive was very messy. I ended up making a bit of a mess of it, but at least it would be hidden under the pickguard after reinstallation.

Also be very aware of the wiring for the pickup. You are in a world of pain if you damage any of the wiring, especially if it’s the coiled wire.

Step 5:

Carefully lever out the existing magnet with a flat-head screw driver. Again take care not to damage the wiring in the pickup.

Carefully lever out the existing magnet with a flat-head screw driver.

You must take note of which way the magnet is installed in the pickup. If you mix up the alignment of the poles you will end up with a pickup out of phase, and will have to go through the process of pulling everything apart again.

I just stuck some masking tape on the pickup, noting the back of it. Then I aligned the new magnet by seeing if it would stick to the old one. If the magnets repelled each other than I knew I had the alignment incorrect.

Step 6:

Put the new magnet in place.

Put the new magnet in place.

Once you’ve done this reverse steps 4 to 1, and you should be right to go!

You may also find it worthwhile testing to make sure that none of your wiring came apart during all of this. Once you’ve got the pickup backplate back together just plug your guitar into your amp, and tap on each of the pickup coils with a screw driver, and make sure you hear a tapping noise. If one of the pickups does not make a sound through the amp then something has happened to your wiring.

Pickup and everything reinstalled.

Now remember I mentioned that I had noted that the new magnet was a little bigger than the ones I had been using?

Fitting the new magnet did cause me a little grief. If was a tight squeeze, and I noticed that once I had installed everything the two pickup coils had separated somewhat. Thankfully nothing was damaged in this process.

And what of the most important aspect of this exercise, the sound?

The first ceramic magnet I dropped in did give me a little more power, but it also seemed a bit weaker and had more treble when split with the middle single coil pickup.

This new fatter “distortion” ceramic pickup really made quite a difference. The pickup pushes the amp a great deal harder now. Not quite as much as an active EMG, but plenty to make me happy.

The pickup still retains a lot of the PAF Pro overtones and overall clarity, but it just sounds a lot meaner and fatter. I raised the pole pieces a little to help even out how fat the pickup sounded now, and give my tone a little more cutting treble.

Splitting the PAF Pro with the middle single coil is a lot better now than it was with the first ceramic pickup I installed. It’s a lot more like the pickup was with the original Alnico 5 magnet, just with more balls.

I’ve also found that dropping a strong ceramic pickup in the PAF Pro has made tapping, harmonic squeals and the like a lot easier to pull off than it was with a stock PAF Pro. It’s a lot more forgiving with regards to average technique, which is a good thing for me.

Changing magnets in pickups is definitely a worthwhile, and fun DIY mod that you can do quite easily with a little care. Next time you install a pickup, and find that you like the tone, but it’s either too powerful, or not powerful enough – as it was in my case – maybe think about swapping pickup magnets. The results may very well please you.

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Ibanez AF2 Airplane Flanger

Saturday, November 21st, 2009

Ibanez AF2 Airplane Flanger - Paul Gilbert approves!

I went to my local music store Better Music today to ask them if I could borrow gear from time to time for me to review for Jemsite Comparison Shopping, and of course my blog. This is the first piece of gear they have lent me.

So for the weekend I get to have the pleasure of playing with the new Ibanez Paul Gilbert signature Airplane Flanger. I’ve already had a bit of a play with it, and it rocks! Amazing sounds can be created with this pedal.

I should have the review published over at Jemsite Comparison Shopping at some point during the week, and I’ll have an extended review available later on.

I’m really looking forward to experimenting more with the Airplane Flanger.  Thanks to Better Music for agreeing to allow me the privilege of borrowing gear from their store. There are a great bunch of knowledgeable guys there.

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Waves GTR Solo – review

Sunday, November 15th, 2009

Waves offer you a fantastic opportunity to try out their GTR amp and effects modelling software.

There have been some great advances in digital and software modelling of amplifiers and effects in the past few years. There are a number of different options out there in the market, all with varying prices, and options. Some companies also offer hardware like footswitch boards to interface with their software, making the line between “real” music gear like amps and effects pedals and software very thin.

One of the companies I started to look at is Waves. Their range of GTR packages has price points to suit all budgets, even if you have no budget!

I received a copy of Waves GTR Solo on a one year free trial directly from Waves. I thought it would be a great way to play guitar quietly, and still get the sound of a cranked up tube amp.

GTR Solo is a condensed, “light” version of Waves GTR package, and contains 10 amp models, and 13 effects pedal models, as well as a range of cabinets and microphones. The amp range are as follows:

  • Clean
    • Clean Based on a 1959 tweed Fender® Bassman®
    • Sweet Based on a 1968 Gibson® Skylark
  • Drive
    • Edgy Based on a 1980 Vox® AC-30 TB-2
    • Drive Based on a 1964 blackface Fender® Super Reverb®
    • Overdrive Based on a 1980 Marshall® JMP
  • High gain
    • Crunch Based on a boutique amplifier from Paul Reed Smith’s personal collection
    • Shredder Based on a Marshall® JMP1 preamp
    • PRS Scorch Based on a boutique amplifier from Paul Reed Smith’s personal collection
    • PRS Crush Based on a modified 50W Marshall® MK2
  • Solid state bass
    • Solid State Based on a Hartke® 3500

Each amp model has it’s own distinctive tone, and when you can pair them up with any speaker cabinet, ranging from 1 x12s to 4x10s and 4x12s, and an array of microphone it opens up a whole world of tone. And don’t forget all the standard effects too.

I personally favoured the clean amp models hit with an overdrive pedal model, and the noise gate/compressor pedal to cover up the extra noise that the models generated. Yes! That’s right, this software acts just like real amps and pedals. Cranking a clean amp model such as the Sweet Gibson Skylark, and hitting it with an overdrive pedal resulted in awesome tone, but as it would be in the real world with these amps a high degree of noise was generated too. This all adds to the authenticity of the models.

I also quite liked the 3 Drive amps. They were capable of generating awesome rock and metal tones. I found the high gain models are little too much for my tastes, and I didn’t really play with the bass amp model.

Changing the cabinet and microphone also offered a huge array of tonal variations with the amps, and all react much like the real thing.

One thing I was a little disappointed with was I could not find a way to open GTR Solo in an audio recording program. I’m not sure if this was because GTR Solo, being a “light” variation in the GTR range of software didn’t have the functionality, or if I just could not work it out. Either way I think it would have been fun to record with this package.

If you would like to try out some computer based amp and effect modelling software Waves GTR Solo is a great starting point. Their one year free trial is a brilliant, as it really gives you plenty of time to play around with the software, and decide if you really like it. And the amp/FX/Speaker/Mic combinations all work so well.

I have also reviewed this on Jemsite’s comparison shopping. Go check it out for more reviews on this product, and prices at different online stores.

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MXR Smart Gate – review

Sunday, November 15th, 2009

MXR Smart Gate

A great priced noise gate that doesn't colour your tone.

In the world of high gain modern rock and metal a noise gate/suppressor is essential. Playing with loads of distortion typically results in a lot of excess noise. You need something to remove this hissing and buzzing, and with some styles you want a complete cut that noise gates can provide when set high.

There are a number of pedals out there today that can provide you with these features, but quite often they can drastically colour your tone in an unwanted way.  You typically need to spend a considerable sum of money for a pedal that doesn’t colour at all.

The MXR Smart Gate is a fantastic pedal that is easy to use, only colours your tone in a minimal way when using extreme gate settings, and most importantly is reasonably priced.

The Smart Gate is quite easy to use, and fairly simple to operate. It has a nice sturdy footswitch to turn the pedal on and off, a single knob for adjusting what MXR call the Trigger Point, and a Noise Band Cut Switch. This switch allows you to select the frequency band of noise you are trying to stop (with the settings Full, On and Hiss). There is also a light which informs you of when the noise gate is kicking in.

Basically the way to operate this pedal is roll the Trigger Level knob fully counter-clockwise, and set the Noise Band Cut Switch to the type of noise you wish to block, play your guitar, and turn the knob until you are cutting the undesired noise, but still retaining an acceptable level of sustain.

This is all nice and simple in theory, but how does the Smart Gate operate in reality? I personally found the pedal very usable indeed. My purpose for trying out this pedal was to try and kill some 60 cycle hum coming from my power source, and quiet down  some noisy pedals somewhat. The Smart Gate did an admirable job of this, even with the Noise Band Cut Switch set to Full. and the Trigger Level knob rolled close to half way when I was using my other noisy pedals.

I was really impressed with how little effect the MXR Smart Gate had on my over all tone. It didn’t really affect my tone even on the higher gate settings that I required with my noisy pedals running. There was a little compression going on perhaps, but nothing to really complain about. Running a tube amp with high gain can compress your tone a little anyway, so it wasn’t really an issue.

I found my best results were when I ran the Smart Gate in front of my Blackstar HT-5 head, before my distortion and compressor pedals. These are the two pedals that create unpleasant noise when engaged on my dirty channel, so keeping it between the amp and your problem pedals is where I would suggest you use it.

The Smart Gate did what anyone would want their noise gate pedal to do, and that is control undesirable noise when there is nothing coming out of the speaker,  but still allow for nice sustain, and minimal effect on tone.

If you are looking for a reasonably priced, easy to use noise gate to clean up your unwanted noise problems then definitely check out this great little unit. I think you will be impressed.

I have also reviewed this on Jemsite’s comparison shopping. Go check it out for more reviews on this product, and prices at different online stores.

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